Gatina-Shafikova D. Graphic Visualization of the Female Conical Headdress of the Tatars in the 18th — 19th Centuries (Historical and Ethnographic Analysis)

Dina Gatina-Shafikova
Institute of History named after Sh. Mardzhani of the Academy of Sciences of the Republic of Tatarstan
Kazan, Russian Federation
ORCID: 0000-0001-5210-8687
E-mail: golocen@yandex.ru

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ABSTRACT. The article is devoted to the study of the female cone-shaped headdress in graphic works by researchers and artists of the 18^th — 19^th centuries. Due to the fact that existing visual sources were previously often used only as auxiliary illustrative material, the described images need a thorough historical and ethnographic analysis. The earliest examples of this type of headdress date back to the second half of the VII century BC, being the archetype for subsequent samples common among many peoples. In written sources, it is recorded that such a form of hats among the female Tatar population existed until the first half of the XIX century. The first artists who depicted folk types were foreigners who came as ambassadors and scientists from other countries, simultaneously studying the local population. Subsequently, in connection with the opening of the Academy of Sciences and the Academy of Arts, local masters who had professional art education became active participants in scientific expeditions. According to the results of the study, it was found that not all artists had real people and their clothes as a prototype for their works — the practice of copying existing works was widespread. Regarding the headdresses themselves, the difference in the shapes of cone-shaped hats, their height and methods of decoration, as well as age differences in the ways of wearing and the presence of additional veil-like elements designed for hiding the head and the entire figure were revealed. The commonality of all headdresses is expressed in a rigid, often framed basis, covered with fabric and decorated with various elements, as part of a ceremonial costume.

KEYWORDS: visual anthropology, visual images, graphics of the 18^th— 19^th Centuries, Tatar costume, headdress

DOI 10.31250/2618-8619-2022-2(16)-143-153
УДК 391.4+7.041

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