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Maykova N. Japanese Traditional Woven Textiles in the Collection of the MAE RAS

Nadezhda Maykova
Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography (Kunstkamera) Russian Academy of Sciences
Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation
ORCID: 0000-0002-2816-5769
E-mail: nmaykova@gmail.com

 

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ABSTRACT. The Japanese collection of the MAE RAS contains more than 1,600 textile samples, including costumes, paintings, armor, dolls, toys, accessories, banners, sword cases, tea ceremony accessories, religious objects and vehicles. The collectors were famous public officials, scientists, travelers and ordinary citizens: Emperor Nicholas II, Vice Admiral Baron O. R. von Stackelberg, employee of the Dutch East India Company I. F. van Overmeer Fischer, ethnographer and botanist A. V. Grigoriev, translator of the poetic anthology “Manyoshu” A. E. Gluskina, and others. The article provides a brief overview of the Japanese textile collection history, conditionally divided into five stages from the museum foundation to the first quarter of the 21st century. The state of preservation, insufficient information content of accompanying documents and terminological complications make it difficult to attribute individual samples. Nevertheless it is possible to draw preliminary conclusions about the use of materials traditional for the region (cotton, silk and bast plant fibers), weaves (plain, twill, satin, combined weaves, complex large-patterned, pile) and methods of decorating (embroidery, dyeing, painting, applique) depending on the purpose of the item. The text contains descriptions of unique samples with a focus on costume textiles (men's, women’s, military and theatrical), as they most fully represent the richness and diversity of Japanese textiles.

 

KEYWORDS: history of collections, weaving, fabrics, Japan, costume

 

FOR CITATION: Maykova N. Japanese Traditional Woven Textiles in the Collection of the MAE RAS. Kunstkamera. 2024. 3(25): 28–46. (In Russian). doi 10.31250/2618-8619-2024-3(25)-28-46

 

DOI 10.31250/2618-8619-2024-3(25)-28-46
UDC 391

 

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